Skincare is one of the most progressive industries today. Things that matter today might be outdated tomorrow. Studies are always going on to understand what is best for our skin. Thanks to social media, skincare is finally getting the attention it deserves. Healthy skin is no longer attributed to good genes alone. Now we know there are better ways to care for our skin. And that healthy skin is achievable even if you weren't born with it. Social media sensitization on skincare has drastically reduced the ignorance about our skin.

People now know that bleaching their skin comes with grave consequences such as destroying their skin barrier, which could cause adverse effects if not stopped. Many are now embracing their skin complexion. Unlike when black-skinned people were seen as less human and called derogatory names, even in a black nation like Nigeria. The pressure to have a certain complexion led to the bleaching pandemic.

Darker skin girls were made to feel ugly because of their skin tone. But it's almost a thing of the past now. We are not there yet, but it's better than what it used to be. About 6 years ago, when I started my skincare journey. I heard a lot about exfoliation being the key to achieving healthy and glowing skin. There was a lot of buzz about using organic raw materials to exfoliate your skin. Youtube saw a tremendous amount of growth in the skincare department that year. Tutorials on how to achieve glowing skin with natural ingredients were everywhere.

Youtube then was what TikTok is today. My exfoliating journey started with the three most popular organic ingredients that were widely recommended by self-acclaimed skincare experts.; turmeric, honey, and lemon. These were ingredients that are readily available in the kitchen.

The purpose of these ingredients is to achieve brighter and glowing skin. 

Did I achieve any of that? Absolutely. Did it come at a cost? You bet it did.

I should have stopped when I noticed that my face stung after applying the mixture. But I was convinced that the stinging is a sign that it was working. So I continued. Until I started having severe sunburn-like black patches on my face. And also rashes that won't go away. To top it up, I never used sunscreen. In fact, I had never seen one at the time. I only saw them in Hollywood movies. And it was mostly worn by white people. There was not enough representation of black skin when it comes to sunscreen then. Sunscreen would have protected my skin from being chicken roasted. maybe not full protection because of the lemon, which reacts badly with sun exposure. But it could have reduced the damage.

I know my skincare beginner journey is similar to what a lot of us started with. There was little to no factual information at our disposal. No experts to educate people that we were doing skin care the wrong way. And that some of the ingredients we were using are doing more harm to our skin barrier than good.     

But all that has changed. There are a lot of studies regarding our skin and how to properly care for it.

Now we know that having healthy skin starts with having a healthy skin barrier. The products you use or the ingredients used to make them wouldn't matter if your skin barrier is damaged.  

You must be thinking, what is the skin barrier? 

The skin barrier is the outermost layer of the skin cells (the straneum corneum), it's sometimes called the brick wall. Which consists of tough skin cells called corneocytes that are bound together by lipids. These lipid layers are;

• Ceramides
• Cholesterol
• Fatty acids   

The purpose of the skin barrier is to protect the skin from harmful environmental toxins and pathogens that could penetrate the skin and cause some serious damage to the body.

Also, without the skin barrier, the water inside your body would evaporate, leaving your skin extremely dehydrated. 

Your skin barrier is essential to having healthy skin. 

Let's just say that your skin barrier is the protective armor that keeps your skin healthy.

Signs that your skin barrier is damaged 

If you are experiencing some sort of skin issues, it could be that your skin has sustained some kind of damage.

Those damages could be translated into;

• Acne
• tenderness/sensitivity
• inflammation/irritation
• Itchiness
• dry /flaky skin
• Rough patches
• Stinging especially after applying skin care products
• Increased breakout
• eczema

If you are experiencing these symptoms, it means your skin barrier has been compromised and is in need of repair.

How to identify the common causes of skin barrier damage

• Over exfoliation
• Excessive use of active ingredients like retinol. Salicylic acid, BHA, AHA, L-ascorbic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid
• Harsh fragrances in skincare
• Skipping sunscreen
• Not using a moisturizer
• Using Kitchen ingredients like lemon
• Unfavorable weather
• Alcohol-based products
• Medications
• Genetics
• Aging (our skin barrier naturally starts declining from the age of 40)
• Chemical peel (when it's frequently performed)

Is there any hope for restoring a damaged skin barrier?

Yes, there is. You can restore balance to your skin pH by keeping your skincare routine very simple. Avoid over-exfoliating and frequent use of active ingredients. 

Patch test a product before using: patch test on your skin before you apply any products.

What do I mean by a patch test? It simply means applying a small amount of any skincare product on a small part of your skin and waiting to see if there's any reaction. If there's none, it's safe for your skin. And if there is, then it's not safe.

Wear sunscreen: sunscreen is known to be the ultimate protector of the skin against UV rays. 

Use gentle cleansers: instead of buying cleansers with active ingredients, use the ones that are gentle and calm on your skin. Micellar water or creamy cleansers are a good start.

Wash your face with lukewarm water only: Avoid washing your face with extreme water temperatures. Too hot or too cold should be avoided at all costs as it damages your capillaries.

Use the right products: Use products with ingredients that will mimic the natural lipids found in your skin.

It's the best way to heal a damaged skin barrier.

Ingredients to look out for when you want to heal your skin barrier

• Ceramides
• Hyaluronic acid
• Niacinamide
• Jojoba oil
• Aloe vera
• Vitamin E oil
• Shea butter
• Vitamin B5 and 9